Aishwarya Nair has a sense of humour and a pleasant disposition that relieves you of the pressure of how to present yourself when meeting with the youngest generation of the Nair clan, the family behind the Leela chain of hotels.

Trust Facebook to make the connection, something that brings the formality quotient down a good couple of notches. I was slated to be in Mumbai on wine work and plans for dinner were made.

Now I hate doing two things. I absolutely detest writing about the food I am served at any event, no matter how good it is. Worse still to wax eloquent about the company from such evenings.

So, it would suffice to say that Aishwarya entertained me with true flair and style. Stella at The Leela Mumbai was a great venue, impeccable setting and service, great food and the wines accompanying — Lis Neris Pinot Grigio, Brancaia 'Super Tuscan' Il Bu — were served right and paired superbly. Young Ms Nair understands hospitality and to anticipate and deliver is in her genes.

Which brings me to the topic (finally) — how will the new crop grow the field. Food, beverage and hospitality are going through a generation shift, which is leading to a change in the way the traditional product is perceived. Paris Hilton is perhaps the worst case in point but there are others. French winemakers don't know how to react when their son returns having done a few vintages in Australia and speaks of "ghastly" innovations like oak chips and screw cap closures. Argentinean chefs are contemplating suicide over the young malarkey of vegetarian restaurants.

Thankfully the home-grown isn't as drastic. Institutions here are doing a good job of upgrading and updating their product without compromising the quality of service and hospitality. But unlike hotels, wines are a lot more subjective. A wine can never exist outside of the influence of the person making it. If anything, a wine is a contemplative reflection of the personality of the man who makes it. So, when baton changes hands, there is an inevitable change in the final product as well.

Arguments abound against the young: basic lack of experience, general absence of the original hardships thereby leading to a sense of ease and complacency. People discount them saying that they wouldn't try as hard.

Wineries are faced with the constant problem every time a new person is handed the reins. I remember being told at Hennessy how the process of being a master blender involved more than three decades of training. Most reputed houses retain their classic styles and then let the younger ones add new versions which carry their flare. Else, they are allowed to try their hand on other properties sometimes even in other countries in order to preserve the entity and identity of the original product.

BO2 is one such group of young winemakers who are at the helm of some very renowned properties. They deftly walk the line between tradition and modern marketing measures. If anything, their youthful zest has only made things better. Perhaps they will even manage to find new ways to make wine more accessible and less of an aspiration.

Change is not necessarily bad but is always different. To see young blood take on their mammoth businesses with such gusto is something to admire. I have immense faith in young Ms Nair as also others. The only thing that is bad about these young Turks is that they make me feel terribly old.