Opatija, Croatia  - One thing never lacking in a trip to Croatia is surprises.

Drivers along the coastal highway might find themselves wondering what's on offer at all the roadside stalls.

A quick stop in a village tavern in Brsec reveals all: a roomful of locals sits down to steaming bowls of wild asparagus.

It looks like a bowl of thin branches, but it tastes great.

The special spring recipe is just one of the specialties found in the forests near the Kvarner Gulf in northern Croatia.

Another surprise: the tavern also offers rooms.

After pressing a key into a guest's hand, the owner explains how to get to the room through a labyrinth of alleys, typical of the seaside resort of Opatija.

After negotiating a winding staircase, walking past the city wall, past a church from the Middle Ages and up to the city's highest point, on a boulder overlooking the bay, the house comes into view. It's not long before the fireplace is roaring and a bottle of red wine is open - which tastes twice as good after a hectic day in Opatija.

Unlike most coastal villages, it's hard to entirely relax here. It's too tempting to go and explore the village's Mediterranean flair, with its classy hotels and grand villas.

At the same time, crumbling facades and faded paint drive home that the resort's heyday, from the mid 19th century to 1914, is long gone. But that only adds to the town's charm.

The old stomping grounds of Viennese high society is now frequented by an incessant rotation of international guests on day trips to have coffee and cake in its exclusive surroundings.

But visitors should take time to hike uphill and explore the old allies.

There's always one more beautiful villa with an old garden waiting to be discovered.

Spring is like this all over the peninsula of Istria and the Kvarner Gulf: sun, fresh greenery and legions of blossoms.

Best of all, any visitor will have it almost entirely to himself.

The next morning's agenda starts with a ferry to the island of Cres.

A road winds between sloping hills, leading to new views of cliffs and bays, fields of flowers and villages.

The resort village of Valun on the southern end of the Bay of Cres has only 100 inhabitants.

Visitors have to park their car outside the city and take a set of narrow steps down to the harbour, where crystal blue water crashes onto a white pebble beach.

There's no point in looking for a hotel in Valun.

Visitors have to spend the night in private dwellings or in a campground.

Next there's a stop-off on the island of Losinj, home of the tourist destinations of Losinj and Mali Losinj, both packed with charming hotels, imposing sea captain's villas and a wide range of restaurants and cafes.

The ferry then heads to the island of Krk. In the springtime, this island is a paradise for hikers.

Water enthusiasts should head to Baska, the island's second biggest village, with a bay surrounded by mountains.

Unfortunately, the panoramic view of pebble beaches and shimmering green water is marred by a blocky hotel complex.

Another tip: climb the cemetery mountain, home to the secluded church of St Johannes.

Once there, visitors can hike along the mountain's summits, always finding new vistas of the coast and its valleys.

The Plitvice Lakes National Park along the hinterlands of the coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Europe's most beautiful nature refuges.

Its 38,000 hectares include seas, 78-metre high waterfalls and cascades, creating a fairytale setting.

The rocky ground makes the water look blue-green, with fish flitting about.

Excellent signage makes it impossible to get lost here.

Visitors are bound to be accompanied by a stray dogs in the hope of a snack during the walk.

INFOBOX: Kvarner Gulf in Croatia

TRAVEL DESTINATION: The Kvarner Gulf lies along Croatia's north- eastern Adriatic coast.

CLIMATE AND VISITING TIMES: The nicest times to visit are from May to late June or in September and October.

LODGING: Along with regular hotels, the gulf has multiple guest houses and opportunities to rent private apartments. Many locals rent small apartments starting at 20 euros (30.83 dollars).

Internet: http://de.croatia.hr, www.kvarner.hr (dpa)