Chiang Mai  - The elephant that chose the site of Doi Suthep temple must have been a truly far-sighted creature. Legend has it that King Kuna wanted to build a temple to house a relic of the holy Buddha. He ordered that the precious artefact be strapped to the back of a white elephant which was let loose into the jungle.

The elephant stormed through the undergrowth and stopped just short of the summit of Suthep mountain. The monarch took this to be a sign and in 1388 he ordered that a spectacular golden temple be erected on the site. The building still clings to the slope of the peak today. Northern Thailand is hillier, cooler and compared with the south of the country, it calls for more effort on behalf of the tourists intent on discovering its charms.

Anyone who wants to inspect Doi Sunthep temple must first climb 300 steps. The strenuous activity is rewarded by the sight of the copper-plated chedi topped by a five-tiered gold umbrella and countless elephant sculptures.

"Anyone who has not been to Doi Suthep has not been to Chiang Mai," say the locals. Chiang Mai is Thailand's second-largest city with around 200,000 inhabitants and was built at the behest of King Munrai in 1296.

To protect it from enemy raids, he ordered a defensive wall and moat to be built. The ditch is still there, but of the former fortifications only the remains of five gates have survived. The most important temple is Wat Suan Dok which lies close to the city's university. In the huge entrance hall, two monks can be seen bent over their laptops while a third sells baskets of sacrifices containing rice, water and fruit.

The sacrifices are given to a monk knelt in prayer who later distributes them to the needy.

"When I have a dream of my late auntie, I put a needle and some thread in the sacrificial basket," said Akom, a tourist guide. "If my uncle crops up in the dream, I put in some candles and matches so that the spirits in the hereafter can repair their clothes and find their way in the dark."

An enormous peepu tree dominates the courtyard, reminding visitors that it was under the leaves of this ficus variety that the Buddha himself is said to have attained enlightenment. The oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man which dates back to 1296, and the more lofty Wat Chedi Luang, can be found in every travel guide. The main attraction here is a bustling market after dark where local souvenirs are on sale alongside fake luxury handbags and pirated DVDs.

A more authentic Thailand is to be found in the area around Chiang Mai. Around two hours away by car from the bustling metropolis lie the villages of northern Thailand's 13 hill tribes who number around 1 million people in total. The verdant landscape also offers attractive accommodation for guests. These are simple, but tastefully decorated pavilions such as Lisu Lodge, an idyllic oasis of tranquillity close to Dton Loong, a village of the animist Lisu minority.

An important person in these parts is Alehpa the shaman. He heals ailments of all kinds and explains to visitors how he is able to divine the future from chicken bones. There is no bar with alcoholic beverages at the lodge or any kind of organised entertainment.

Guests are invited instead to relax and enjoy the sound of chirping crickets, croaking frogs and contemplate a lush, dew-soaked meadow. Leisure activities include exhilarating mountain bike rides followed by rafting tours for novices.

The captain of the sturdy, inflatable raft ensures that everyone gets suitably wet as they ride the gentle rapids and the bicycle excursion is the perfect way to cool down after the exertion.

It is an authentic but harmless adventure in an area unspoilt by mass tourism. "Oh my goodness," squeal the tourists as water gushes into the boat during the rafting expedition. "O my Buddha!" retorts the skipper as his face breaks into a wide grin.

Internet: http://www.tourismthailand.org/ (dpa)