Munich/Kathmandu  - Eighteen people including 14 European tourists aboard a small aircraft were killed last October when it crashed at Nepal's Lukla airport.

The incident sparked concerns about air travel in the kingdom, but figures show that Nepal still managed to attract more tourists in 2008 than at any time in the previous three decades.

Along with its unspoilt countryside, most people come to Nepal to catch a glimpse of Mount Everest - the world's highest mountain.

Travelling to Everest requires a measure of physical fitness, but also some knowledge of the country which is one of the world's poorest.

Society in Nepal functions differently from anywhere else, and especially so from the point of view of a Westerner. Much of the country's infrastructure is in a dilapidated state.

Waiting for luggage at Kathmandu airport is just a foretaste of what the average tourist can expect? if your bag is not on your plane, it might be on the next one.

Book your journey through an agency to avoid pitfalls.

"If you are young, flexible and spontaneous, you can look for a guide and porters when you arrive," says Stefan Winter, a mountain guide with the German Alpine Association in Munich who has been to Nepal.

"But if you have an accident in a remote area, you often have to wait for aid to arrive," explains Rainer Hoerig, a researcher who is studying tourism and development issues.

He recommends hiring someone familiar with Nepal's terrain and who is in a better position to make contact with locals.

"Many Nepalese speak some English, but not all do and not all very well," points out Winter.

A tour agency can also help you avoid problems in Kathmandu's tourist district of Thamel which is notorious for people who offer spurious help to strangers, warns Ram Thapa, one of Nepal's honorary consuls in Germany.

Hiring guides and porters is not expensive and visitors can expect to pay between 2 and 3 dollars a day, says Thapa.

Another thing to take into consideration is bureaucracy. Many regions of Nepal require visitors to have a trekking permit. A guide, hired directly or booked through an agency, will take care of the formalities.

Nepal also has a few, more complex matters in store for outsiders. Although it is a relatively peaceful country, there is some unrest.

"There can be road blocks, demonstrations and strikes any day of the week. Traffic on main roads can also come to a standstill," warns Hoerig.

"Whether you are travelling by plane or by bus, you will have to lower your standards when it comes to safety," says Winter.

However, most tourists rarely experience any serious problems in Nepal. Ram Thapa advises taking at least one day's delay into consideration when making plans.

If you are planning to fly home on a Wednesday, and you make your way to Kathmandu on Tuesday, you could be in for a disappointment.

If you intend travelling from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Thapa recommends taking one of the specially designated tourist buses.

"They don't take any local passengers, just foreigners."

Hired cars come nearly all of the time with a chauffeur due to the poor state of the country's road network and to provide income for locals.

Ram Thapa advises against using the country's national carrier, Nepal Airlines. Other carriers are okay in comparison.

The best times to visit Nepal are October and November and in spring. The best views of Everest and the Himalayas are in October and March, says Hoerig.

"But due to air pollution, the days with a view of the mountain are becoming fewer."

Internet: www. welcomenepal. com (dpa)