Alexandria, Egypt  - Just mention Alexandria and the name city rekindles the Pharoh era when the city was the location of a lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

The Library of Alexandria was the biggest at that time, but what of modern Alexandria? Is there more to this city than its famous name?

Authorities in Egypt's second largest city believe so and are planning to capitalise on its magnificent past.

Egyptian novelist Naguib Mahfuz was in awe of the city as his description reveals: "Alexandria was a European city where more Italian, French, Greek and English were spoken than Arabic. The city was so beautiful and clean you could eat from its streets. In short, Alexandria was a European city but it belonged to us Egyptians."

But Alexandria's cosmopolitan community became marginalised after the 1952 revolution and the introduction of socialism - Arab-style.

All that remains of that era are memories and wistful melancholy. Plaster peels off the buildings along the Corniche which was once Alexandria's main promenade.

The buildings are in a bad state of repair, corroded by the salty air and neglect, but times are changing and the construction of the Biblioteca Alexandrina or the new Library of Alexandria is testimony to the phenomenon.

Opened in 2002, it aims to reconnect the city with its heritage as an ancient centre of learning.

The reading room is up to seven floors in height and has space for 2,000 people and accommodates 8 million books on its shelves.

However, one book you will not find there is Mahfuz' novel, Children of Gebelawi, which is banned in Egypt, along with many other literary works.

It is highly likely that Alexandria's future will have more to do with archaeology than with free speech. French archaeologists have been diving in Alexandria's harbour since
1998 and have recovered ancient statues, sphinxes and columns in the process.

They also discovered a 120-metre long tunnel with several rooms. At present, they are drafting plans to drain sea water from the site so more thorough work can be carried out.

Alexandria's sea front has seen the completion of projects such as a high-rise complex with a luxury hotel, apartments and restaurants built on the site of the old San Stefano hotel recently.

The city also has a new yacht harbour with a private beach and several, small townhouse-style apartments. The hope is that these projects will attract not only wealthy Egyptians from Cairo but tourists from Europe as well.

Alexa Nahas is one looking forward to more foreign visitors. Nahas is an elderly tour guide and speaks seven languages.

Although very few foreigners come to Alexandria nowadays, she has fond memories of a pre-revolutionary Alexandria when things were different.

"At that time, we had a lively cultural scene and people sat in elegant cafes and enjoyed exciting nightlife," she says.

Some of that former glory can still be found at the Trianon, Delice or at the Sofianopoulo cafes where modern Alexandrians like to sip Turkish coffee, eat sweet desserts and indulge in chit-chat.

Visitors can get a feel for Alexandria's past in Montaza Palace. Although the interior of the former summer residence of Egypt's royal family s not open to the public, visitors can have a look around its garden and guest house.

Furniture and bric-a-brac can be found in the Attarine quarter where shops in the narrow lanes are packed with antiques. And remember to bargain, if you wish to buy souvenirs.

Internet: www. egypt. travel. (dpa)